To read how we created these frames. See our previous posts by clicking below.
DIY Tutorial: Succulent Frame for Vertical Display!
Vertical Succulent Frame DIY Tutorial part 2
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Showing posts with label How To DIY. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How To DIY. Show all posts
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Succulent frame for vertical gardening
I helped my wife create this beauty. Our idea was to make a piece of vertical gardening succulent frame that would excite the sense of touch. Therefore, we selected a few fuzzy looking succulents such as the Doris Taylor Echeverias. The main theme in this arrangement is symmetry and repetition. Simplicity in it's formal design, the final result came out quite nice.
Here's a nice close up of the Doris Taylor Echeveria.
Here's a shot of it next to the first one I made to see how it looks as a pair. The first frame has plenty of healthy looking new growth and is ready to hang on the wall. I will wait another month before hanging both of them up in our courtyard.
To read how we created these frames. See our previous posts by clicking below.
DIY Tutorial: Succulent Frame for Vertical Display!
Vertical Succulent Frame DIY Tutorial part 2
Pin It
To read how we created these frames. See our previous posts by clicking below.
DIY Tutorial: Succulent Frame for Vertical Display!
Vertical Succulent Frame DIY Tutorial part 2
Pin It
Monday, November 14, 2011
Succulent strawberry pot planting
I planted my first succulent strawberry pot today. To keep the weight light weight, I filled a large volume of the space with a 12" tall piece of PVC pipe with a cap on top. I used a circular saw to cut a longer piece of pipe down to fit the pot, making it 6" shorter than the top of the pot.
The drainage hole in the pot is big enough but if I put this pvc pipe in and water it, the water can't access the hole if I water the side pockets. Only the planting on top will have access to the only drainage hole. So I cut notches in the bottom with my dremel tool so that.
Here's the pot with the finished pcv pipe.
It took me an hour and a half to plant a couple of different types of sempervivums and echeveria elegans into the side pockets using my cactus mix.
I put a thin layer of 1/4" red lava rock on top of the plastic cover so that the soil for the top planting would not fall through the openings.
It took me about 2 hours from beginning to finish. I used the 1/4" red lava rock as a topping to fill in the gaps. In time the succulents will fill in that space and cover up the topping but for now, I'll give it some room to grow. Here is another side of the planting.
The finished pot is still heavy but considerable lighter than it would have been had I filled the whole thing with soil. This pot will be a nice addition to our container garden! :D
The drainage hole in the pot is big enough but if I put this pvc pipe in and water it, the water can't access the hole if I water the side pockets. Only the planting on top will have access to the only drainage hole. So I cut notches in the bottom with my dremel tool so that.
Here's the pot with the finished pcv pipe.
It took me an hour and a half to plant a couple of different types of sempervivums and echeveria elegans into the side pockets using my cactus mix.
I put a thin layer of 1/4" red lava rock on top of the plastic cover so that the soil for the top planting would not fall through the openings.
It took me about 2 hours from beginning to finish. I used the 1/4" red lava rock as a topping to fill in the gaps. In time the succulents will fill in that space and cover up the topping but for now, I'll give it some room to grow. Here is another side of the planting.
The finished pot is still heavy but considerable lighter than it would have been had I filled the whole thing with soil. This pot will be a nice addition to our container garden! :D
Monday, October 31, 2011
Vertical Succulent Frame DIY Tutorial part 2
This is part two of my Succulent Frame project. "It's all about the details." is what one of my great bonsai teachers told me. I will be covering the types of plants I used, construction details, and how to apply design concepts for the succulent arrangement.
This is an update with details from my vertical succulent frame DIY tutorial in the last post.
Specific plant names that were used include:
Aeonium Zwartkop
Anglicum Sedum
Echeveria Peacockii
My apologies for not knowing exactly what Sempervivum I used because there was no label on it ...
... but there are tons of them and most of them are very well suited to be used in these vertical succulent frames. Here is an example of several different kinds1:
Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon'
and lastly but not least is Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg
Construction Details
This is the back side of the frame without the cement board covering it. This shows the rot proof heartwood spacer nailed to the sides. The cement board will sit directly on top of these spacers. This is an easy way to make an edge for the cement board to sit on without using a router. The backing board is cement board normally used for a support under tiling projects in the kitchen or bath room. This type of board will not rot or deteriorate when exposed to water.
Here you can see the galvanized L-Brackets I used to attach the side wall to the back of the frame. I also used a waterproof wood glue between the side wall and frame. If you look closely, you will see a staple holding the green plastic coated hardware cloth.
Using a compressor and pneumatic staple gun, I put a staple spaced about every 3" apart all the way around the edge of the hardware cloth. The wood frame is sealed with three coats of an outdoor grade decking wood sealer.
After that, you put the cement board on top. Pre-drill the holes into the cement board before you put the screws in. I used hardiebacker screws designed for the cement board here. They come with a specific screwdriver bit.
Every cutting fitted in between the 1/2" openings in the hardware cloth except for the Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg. I had to cut a bigger opening to fit the stem in. Notice the four sharp edges of the wire pointing towards the center of the opening. This might bite into the stem and that's not good. The black item above is a short section of 1/4" polytube drip line. Here's what you do with it...
Cut a slit on one side of the tube with a pair of pointy scissors. Then wrap it around all four sides of the opening. This will protect the sharp wire points from biting into the stem of your larger stems.
Design!
Most people think too hard and confuse themselves or have no clue where to put what. Some people just randomly put plants wherever they land. As for me, I like to apply design techniques because I learned them really well. Here's what the final arrangement looks like so you can see it before I draw over it to demonstrate how I applied design concepts:
Use a basic shape for example:
Three Perle von Nurnberg Echeverias represent pinks and purples form a triangle. :)
I placed Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' along in a C shaped curve. This curve brings the bright yellows into the composition.
I arranged the Sempervivums in a S-Curve. These basic curves create an organic element to design and are very elegant. They are a good contrast against straight edged shapes. Speaking of contrast , the magic word...
Our vision scientifically tends to get drawn into areas with the highest contrast. This means as a designer, you can create contrast to guide your viewer's eyes! Where this red circled area is, I placed the highest tonal contrast putting the dark deep shiny purple Aeonium Zwartkop rosettes next to the chalky white Echeveria Peacockii. There is also a color contrast since Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' is yellowish and surrounds the deep purple Aeonium Zwartkop.
Next in my mind is size, color, and texture contrast in this area under the blue circle. The largest succulent is the Echeveria Perle von nurnberg which is placed next to tiny strands of Anglicum sedum. Again, Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' the yellow is placed next to the purples in the Echeveria Perle von nurnberg to provide a color contrast in addition to size contrast. And finally, the rough textures of the Sedum sets it apart from the large smooth petals on the Echeveria.
Click here to see the high resolution image of the final arrangement.
I think if you can use a few of these ideas in your designs, you will create a more well balanced, thought out, and harmoniously composed arrangement. I hope this will help you fellow succulent lovers out there. Good luck and don't forget to have fun while you work!
1. Image Source: https://www.simplysucculents.com/
This is an update with details from my vertical succulent frame DIY tutorial in the last post.
Specific plant names that were used include:
Aeonium Zwartkop
Anglicum Sedum
Echeveria Peacockii
My apologies for not knowing exactly what Sempervivum I used because there was no label on it ...
... but there are tons of them and most of them are very well suited to be used in these vertical succulent frames. Here is an example of several different kinds1:
Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon'
and lastly but not least is Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg
Construction Details
This is the back side of the frame without the cement board covering it. This shows the rot proof heartwood spacer nailed to the sides. The cement board will sit directly on top of these spacers. This is an easy way to make an edge for the cement board to sit on without using a router. The backing board is cement board normally used for a support under tiling projects in the kitchen or bath room. This type of board will not rot or deteriorate when exposed to water.
Here you can see the galvanized L-Brackets I used to attach the side wall to the back of the frame. I also used a waterproof wood glue between the side wall and frame. If you look closely, you will see a staple holding the green plastic coated hardware cloth.
Using a compressor and pneumatic staple gun, I put a staple spaced about every 3" apart all the way around the edge of the hardware cloth. The wood frame is sealed with three coats of an outdoor grade decking wood sealer.
After that, you put the cement board on top. Pre-drill the holes into the cement board before you put the screws in. I used hardiebacker screws designed for the cement board here. They come with a specific screwdriver bit.
Every cutting fitted in between the 1/2" openings in the hardware cloth except for the Echeveria Perle Von Nurnberg. I had to cut a bigger opening to fit the stem in. Notice the four sharp edges of the wire pointing towards the center of the opening. This might bite into the stem and that's not good. The black item above is a short section of 1/4" polytube drip line. Here's what you do with it...
Cut a slit on one side of the tube with a pair of pointy scissors. Then wrap it around all four sides of the opening. This will protect the sharp wire points from biting into the stem of your larger stems.
Design!
Most people think too hard and confuse themselves or have no clue where to put what. Some people just randomly put plants wherever they land. As for me, I like to apply design techniques because I learned them really well. Here's what the final arrangement looks like so you can see it before I draw over it to demonstrate how I applied design concepts:
Use a basic shape for example:
Three Perle von Nurnberg Echeverias represent pinks and purples form a triangle. :)
I placed Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' along in a C shaped curve. This curve brings the bright yellows into the composition.
I arranged the Sempervivums in a S-Curve. These basic curves create an organic element to design and are very elegant. They are a good contrast against straight edged shapes. Speaking of contrast , the magic word...
Our vision scientifically tends to get drawn into areas with the highest contrast. This means as a designer, you can create contrast to guide your viewer's eyes! Where this red circled area is, I placed the highest tonal contrast putting the dark deep shiny purple Aeonium Zwartkop rosettes next to the chalky white Echeveria Peacockii. There is also a color contrast since Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' is yellowish and surrounds the deep purple Aeonium Zwartkop.
Next in my mind is size, color, and texture contrast in this area under the blue circle. The largest succulent is the Echeveria Perle von nurnberg which is placed next to tiny strands of Anglicum sedum. Again, Sedum Makinoi 'Ogon' the yellow is placed next to the purples in the Echeveria Perle von nurnberg to provide a color contrast in addition to size contrast. And finally, the rough textures of the Sedum sets it apart from the large smooth petals on the Echeveria.
Click here to see the high resolution image of the final arrangement.
I think if you can use a few of these ideas in your designs, you will create a more well balanced, thought out, and harmoniously composed arrangement. I hope this will help you fellow succulent lovers out there. Good luck and don't forget to have fun while you work!
1. Image Source: https://www.simplysucculents.com/
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
DIY Tutorial: Succulent Frame for Vertical Display!
This is actually the first vertical succulent frame that I made complete with a plant arrangement.
The size is 20" x 16". The top frame is a 1" wide by 1/2" tall custom frame that i sealed with three coats of wood sealer a while ago.
I joined another wood frame using a 2" wide canvas stretcher bars to build a depth for the box to contain the soil. The two frames were combined to make a 2" deep box using rust free metal L-brackets and some waterproof glue.
A piece of hardware cloth (wire mesh) coated with a green plastic was cut a couple of inches bigger than the size of the frame opening so that I can cut out the four corners and fold the sides parallel to the box wall. I stapled to the folded sides of the hardware cloth to the side of the frame. The backing board is cement board normally used for a support under tiling projects in the kitchen or bath room. The board is screwed on to the back of the frame using rust free screws designed for the cement board. If you're handy with a router you can cut a rabbit to hide the side edge of the cement board.
You can see a little of the details in the frame I used here. I thought about drilling some drainage holes in the back but decided that it probably won't matter much. The soil is a mixture of 50% cactus mix and 50% perlite. Cactus mix already has perlite or pumice depending on which kind you buy but I like adding more perlite because it improves drainage and keeps the mix light weight which is important since we will eventually hang this vertically.
I pack the soil in with a chopstick and covered it with green sphagum moss. This holds the soil in and fills the surface with a nice green color which will fill in any areas that are left open in between the succulents. You can see that the moss really holds the soil in when you stand it up.
I wanted to make this succulent arrangement for my wife. She likes pinks and purples and floral shapes so I decided to go with that color scheme and use yellow as a complimentary color to make accents. The most affordable succulents I found were actually from The Home Depot. For pinks and purples, I used three Echeveria 'Perle Von Nurnberg' in a triangle shape'. The little green succulents on the bottom right is a kind of Sempervivum. For yellow, my plan was to use Ogon. Then the plan was to cover the rest of the frame with a ground cover Sedum. I left the plants in their little pots and roughly arranged them here using the idea of applying S-curves and or C-curves in groups of plants. You need tweezers and a steady hand to plant these little succulents.
It took me about three hours to remove all the soil from the plant containers, and plant everything. I decided to use a few Aeonium Zwartkops (Dark Prince) that are almost black with a deep purple sheen to add a bit of drama. The planting process is tedious but not difficult. Just remember to be patient and enjoy the process since you are making a masterpiece ;).
Here she is! I misted the surface only to take a nice photo. However, I will not water this for a week so that the cuttings have time to heal and form callouses. Now we will keep this in the shade and flat on a table for 3-6 months until every cutting is rooted into the soil. Once the succulents are rooted, they will not be easily pulled out of the frame. At that point, I will attach a couple of wall hangers and hang it up in our courtyard! In the mean time, we will enjoy it flat on a table for a while. Here is a high resolution image if you want to take a closer look!
Monday, August 29, 2011
Drip irrigation set up
I spent the last week learning how to set up a drip irrigation system for our back-yard using 1/2" poly tubing. Unlike a traditional sprinkler system that is expensive to set up, requires lots of trench digging, wastes more water than necessary, and complicated plumber skills, drip irrigation is very do-it-yourself friendly. This will save me some time so that I can spend it on other things like shaping and taking care of the trees and plants. It will also keep everything alive while we go on vacation.
We have no sprinkler system so I'm setting up a simple drip system connected directly to the hose bib with a 4-way manifold attached. I measured that our hose bib outputs 4.5 gallons per minute (or 270 gallons per hour). We have a clay-like soil. I am using all DIG brand drip irrigation parts bought from Home Depot. While you browse at HD, grab one of those free DIG pamphlets because they tell you everything you need to know to set your drip irrigation system up. We only have small trees and shrubs, potted plants, hanging baskets, a few window boxes, and we have a strip of ground cover in the front yard. I only read what applies to the kinds of plants we have. Setting up the drip irrigation system isn't rocket science, it just takes a little bit of research and is very inexpensive compared to hiring a professional to install a traditional sprinkler system. Here are some important notes I gathered from the free DIG pamphlet:
http://www.digcorp.com/
- You should not exceed 220 GPH (3.6 GPM) total through a 1/2" line, and no more than 25 GPH on a 1/4" line.
- For small trees and shrubs in clay soil, use one 1GPH dripper; for loamy and sandy soil, use one to two 1GPH drippers spaced every 12-18" apart.
- For hanging baskets, pots, and boxes 1-25 gallons, use one .5 gallon dripper. Or use one sprayer on a spike for a 5-25 gallon sized plants.
I'm using mist sprayers for my potted plants because most of my soil is so coarse that a drip emitter would pass the water straight through the soil to the drainage hole before the roots get to absorb any of it.
My hanging baskets have more dense soil that can hold more water so I will use a .5 gallon per hour drip emitter.
All the small trees and shrubs are using two 1 gallon per hour drip emitters except for the Manzanita because it's not recommended that they be watered by drip irrigation. I will hand water the Manzanita when it's thirsty.
I will use jet spray emitters for the ground cover in the front yard once I'm done with the back-yard.
To automate everything, I bought a 9001EZ, 3/4" Hose end timer connected to a 4 way hose bib manifold. This allows me to attach a hose to hand water anything that has special watering needs. In the future, I will call a professional to install a carbon water filter to remove the chlorine out of the garden water and use mycorrhizae applications to optimize tree and plant growth.
Useful resource links:
You can set up a very easy drip watering system by getting these parts at any Home Depot or Lowes. You can use drip emitters, micro sprinklers with all different kinds of spray patterns, misters which are good for pots, and even soaker hoses. In addition, you can get a timer and you're set to go on vacation!
http://www.digcorp.com/DIY/781-Drip_Irrigation_&_Micro_Sprinkler_Kits/jobs
For those of you who have a sprinkler system, you can get this retrofit adapter to attach to a sprinkler head and it will allow you to convert it to a drip system.
http://www.digcorp.com/DIY/782-Retrofit_Drip_Kits_&_Heads/jobs
We have no sprinkler system so I'm setting up a simple drip system connected directly to the hose bib with a 4-way manifold attached. I measured that our hose bib outputs 4.5 gallons per minute (or 270 gallons per hour). We have a clay-like soil. I am using all DIG brand drip irrigation parts bought from Home Depot. While you browse at HD, grab one of those free DIG pamphlets because they tell you everything you need to know to set your drip irrigation system up. We only have small trees and shrubs, potted plants, hanging baskets, a few window boxes, and we have a strip of ground cover in the front yard. I only read what applies to the kinds of plants we have. Setting up the drip irrigation system isn't rocket science, it just takes a little bit of research and is very inexpensive compared to hiring a professional to install a traditional sprinkler system. Here are some important notes I gathered from the free DIG pamphlet:
http://www.digcorp.com/
- You should not exceed 220 GPH (3.6 GPM) total through a 1/2" line, and no more than 25 GPH on a 1/4" line.
- For small trees and shrubs in clay soil, use one 1GPH dripper; for loamy and sandy soil, use one to two 1GPH drippers spaced every 12-18" apart.
- For hanging baskets, pots, and boxes 1-25 gallons, use one .5 gallon dripper. Or use one sprayer on a spike for a 5-25 gallon sized plants.
I'm using mist sprayers for my potted plants because most of my soil is so coarse that a drip emitter would pass the water straight through the soil to the drainage hole before the roots get to absorb any of it.
My hanging baskets have more dense soil that can hold more water so I will use a .5 gallon per hour drip emitter.
All the small trees and shrubs are using two 1 gallon per hour drip emitters except for the Manzanita because it's not recommended that they be watered by drip irrigation. I will hand water the Manzanita when it's thirsty.
I will use jet spray emitters for the ground cover in the front yard once I'm done with the back-yard.
To automate everything, I bought a 9001EZ, 3/4" Hose end timer connected to a 4 way hose bib manifold. This allows me to attach a hose to hand water anything that has special watering needs. In the future, I will call a professional to install a carbon water filter to remove the chlorine out of the garden water and use mycorrhizae applications to optimize tree and plant growth.
Useful resource links:
You can set up a very easy drip watering system by getting these parts at any Home Depot or Lowes. You can use drip emitters, micro sprinklers with all different kinds of spray patterns, misters which are good for pots, and even soaker hoses. In addition, you can get a timer and you're set to go on vacation!
http://www.digcorp.com/DIY/781-Drip_Irrigation_&_Micro_Sprinkler_Kits/jobs
For those of you who have a sprinkler system, you can get this retrofit adapter to attach to a sprinkler head and it will allow you to convert it to a drip system.
http://www.digcorp.com/DIY/782-Retrofit_Drip_Kits_&_Heads/jobs
Monday, July 4, 2011
More Succulent Window Boxes :)
The best way to get some mileage is to do it! So we made three more window boxes using the same ideas we shared with on a previous post. Mix different size succulents, vary the heights and shapes, use negative space, and we mulched this with black riverbed rocks and lava rock.
Graptoveria 'fred ives' in the foreground here. It's the biggest succulent in the boxes. On a side note, we saw a van at the Hungtington Library Succulent show that had a sticker that said "My succulents are bigger than your succulents."
Graptoveria 'fred ives' in the foreground here. It's the biggest succulent in the boxes. On a side note, we saw a van at the Hungtington Library Succulent show that had a sticker that said "My succulents are bigger than your succulents."
Monday, May 16, 2011
Succulent Window Box: How To DIY!
LET'S BUILD A SUCCULENT WINDOW BOX!
Let's revisit that sad little window box, shall we? It's empty and IT NEEDS SOME PLANTS! Need some advice? Here's a photo gallery of how we did it.
Here are our cuttings of choice. A few large rosettes to offset the smaller cuttings. This is "xGraptoveria 'Fred Ives.'" "Graptopetalums work well as cascaders, providing they are shelter from wind and passerby. Their leaves fall off readily, which is one way the plant reproduces: roots form at the stem end! Fred Ives form large (up to 6") rosettes. Depending on the lighting, they can go from blues to rose or yellows. (In the shade, expect cooler colors, in full sun, expect warmer tones!) And in spring, they'll bloom pretty yellow flowers.
This second group of cuttings I found in our collection are: Crassula marginalis f. rubra. A cascading mass of thick pink, green and lemon variegated leaves. Wonderful in a hanging pot. White flowers. Sun/part sun. A couple long stemmed jade rosettes and baby aloes.
We filled the bottom of the window box with volcanic rock for easy and fast drainage. The cactus mix soil (which for this batch, we purchased from Home Depot) is mixed with more perlite. I mixed it into the soil well with my scoop.
Large plants first! First I placed the large Graptopetalums in first. Since they're large and focal pieces in the pot, I wanted them to be strategically placed. In the end, I placed one large "rose" on each end, with a smaller one closer to the left. Later on, you'll see that I place another in the middle.
Next, place your medium sized cuttings. I draped the bright green jade plants near the two rosettes on each end. I LOVED how the bright colors stood out against the white of the box.
Accent with draping succulents. We accented long stems of sedeveria around all sides of the box. These were given to us by a generous relative. They did have rosettes at the ends, but transport cause many of the "leaves" to break off. (While that is sad, many of the broken leaves have already started to root and sprout! So we're excited about that.) When it fills in, it should look fantastic. :)
Add a few more accent plants to balance the colors and space and you're done! We filled in the space above the sedeveria with a the deep pink sedum to give it a neat layered look and to also break up the large rosettes with bright color. I hope it won't weight the sedveria down too much, but we'll see how it holds up! I threw in an ice plant in the back (you can't see it) as well as a few aloe pups, so it should fill in nicely sooner than later! YAY!
CLOSE UP GALLERY
Whew! Thanks for reading! Ninja out!
Tech Specs:
Box size is 40" wide x 12" deep x 12" tall and can be bought at Home Depot but if you build your own, try to use cedar or redwood because they are rot resistant. Pressure treated boards are treated by chemicals so they are not the best for your plants to make contact with. We used heavy duty metal brackets and weather proof deck screws.
One bag of 3/4" .75 cubic foot red lava rock will fill the bottom half of the box keeping the whole box light-weight and speeds drainage.
Here are our cuttings of choice. A few large rosettes to offset the smaller cuttings. This is "xGraptoveria 'Fred Ives.'" "Graptopetalums work well as cascaders, providing they are shelter from wind and passerby. Their leaves fall off readily, which is one way the plant reproduces: roots form at the stem end! Fred Ives form large (up to 6") rosettes. Depending on the lighting, they can go from blues to rose or yellows. (In the shade, expect cooler colors, in full sun, expect warmer tones!) And in spring, they'll bloom pretty yellow flowers.
This second group of cuttings I found in our collection are: Crassula marginalis f. rubra. A cascading mass of thick pink, green and lemon variegated leaves. Wonderful in a hanging pot. White flowers. Sun/part sun. A couple long stemmed jade rosettes and baby aloes.
We filled the bottom of the window box with volcanic rock for easy and fast drainage. The cactus mix soil (which for this batch, we purchased from Home Depot) is mixed with more perlite. I mixed it into the soil well with my scoop.
Large plants first! First I placed the large Graptopetalums in first. Since they're large and focal pieces in the pot, I wanted them to be strategically placed. In the end, I placed one large "rose" on each end, with a smaller one closer to the left. Later on, you'll see that I place another in the middle.
Next, place your medium sized cuttings. I draped the bright green jade plants near the two rosettes on each end. I LOVED how the bright colors stood out against the white of the box.
Accent with draping succulents. We accented long stems of sedeveria around all sides of the box. These were given to us by a generous relative. They did have rosettes at the ends, but transport cause many of the "leaves" to break off. (While that is sad, many of the broken leaves have already started to root and sprout! So we're excited about that.) When it fills in, it should look fantastic. :)
Add a few more accent plants to balance the colors and space and you're done! We filled in the space above the sedeveria with a the deep pink sedum to give it a neat layered look and to also break up the large rosettes with bright color. I hope it won't weight the sedveria down too much, but we'll see how it holds up! I threw in an ice plant in the back (you can't see it) as well as a few aloe pups, so it should fill in nicely sooner than later! YAY!
CLOSE UP GALLERY
Whew! Thanks for reading! Ninja out!
Tech Specs:
Box size is 40" wide x 12" deep x 12" tall and can be bought at Home Depot but if you build your own, try to use cedar or redwood because they are rot resistant. Pressure treated boards are treated by chemicals so they are not the best for your plants to make contact with. We used heavy duty metal brackets and weather proof deck screws.
One bag of 3/4" .75 cubic foot red lava rock will fill the bottom half of the box keeping the whole box light-weight and speeds drainage.
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